Get in

By plane

Indira Gandhi International Airport (IGI, IATA: DEL) [2] is the arrival point for many visitors into Delhi. Once one of the worst airports on the planet, the airport has been taken over by an international consortium, which has completed a first round of refurbishing that has already improved things greatly. Most terminals have basic facilities like money changing and restaurants, and even the toilets are now usable without gasmasks and hazmat suits, but the major problem remains
overcrowding — during the peak hours (middle of the night for international flights and early morning for domestic), it can be hard to find even a place to sit.

The airport is split into three terminals, with the domestic terminals 1A and 1B commonly known as Palam Airport.

• Terminal 1A (Domestic): Air India flights with IC numbers (flights fomerly operated by Indian), Kingfisher and GoAir
• Terminal 1B (Domestic): All other domestic flights (except Indian, Kingfisher and GoAir)
• Terminal 2 (International): All international flights and Air India domestic flights with AI numbers

Terminals 1A and 1B are fairly close (around 0.5 km), but both are a long way from Terminal 2 and you should reserve at least three hours to connect. If you are making connections, it can take between 15 and 30 minutes once you exit one terminal to get to the other one by car (depending on time of day and traffic). There is a free shuttle bus between T1 and T2, but it runs only once per hour. (On the upside, it crosses through the airport and can be much faster than detouring on the congested roads outside like taxis do.)

Security at the airport is tight, so you should show up at least two hours before your flight is scheduled. The process is smoother than it used to be though: X-raying bags before entry is no longer necessary, and shops and restaurants are now located at the gate area, not before security.

The easiest and safest way to get from the airport to the city is to arrange transport ahead of time through your hotel (some hotels provide this service for free). Alternatively, you can pay for a taxi at the prepaid taxi booths in the international terminal (it is advised that you check your change). The number of the taxi assigned to you will be on the receipt. Then, go straight through the airport and turn right immediately outside the front doors and someone will help you find your taxi. There are several options, but the booth operated by the "Delhi Police" is considered the best, with non-A/C taxis to most points in the city Rs.200-300. Keep an eye on your change though and try to avoid paying with large bills.

Do not give the receipt to the driver until you get to the destination as this is what they are paid on. Also, ignore the explanation the driver will invariably offer at the destination as to why he requires additional payment. Take your baggage first, then give the driver the receipt and walk away without further discussion. There is a problem with this as there is a checkpoint manned by the traffic police just as your taxi moves away, you will have to give the receipt to the driver who will hand it over to the police who will record the number. Try getting the receipt back from the driver!
It is also possible to take a city bus during the day or a private one that runs 24 hours a day. As everywhere in India, ignore taxi touts!
During the winter (Dec-Jan), Delhi often experiences dense fog and visibility is reduced considerably, making it difficult for flights to land and take off. Both international and domestic flights are often diverted or cancelled, so plan accordingly and allow for one or two days for possible delays.

By bus

Buses arrive from Kathmandu and Chitwan in Nepal (36+ hours) and virtually every city in India. Although not as comfortable as the trains, buses are the only choice for some destinations, mainly those in the mountains.
Delhi has a confusing slew of inter-state bus termini (ISBT), which all have two names. The Delhi Transport Corporation [3] is the major operator, but every state also runs its own buses and there are some private operators too.

• Kashmere Gate ISBT (aka Maharana Pratap), Metro: Kashmere Gate. This is "the" ISBT and the largest of the lot. Buses to points north, including Nepal.
• Sarai Kale Khan ISBT (aka Vir Hakikat Rai), next to Hazrat Nizamuddin railway station. Buses to points south.
• Anand Vihar ISBT (aka Swami Vivekanand), on the east bank of Yamuna. Buses to points east.

By train

Trains arrive at one of three main stations: Delhi Junction, also called Old Delhi or Purani Dilli, the second at New Delhi which lies in Central Delhi, and one at Hazrat Nizamuddin a few kilometers to the south. (Very few trains use Delhi Sarai Rohilla or Delhi Cantt stations.) Delhi Junction and New Delhi Railway Station are now conveniently connected by Metro Line 2, just minutes apart. It will take about 40 minutes to an hour to travel from the New Delhi Railway Station to the airport by car, depending on traffic.
A ticket office open to all is on the road to Connaught Place with longer hours. It often has waiting times not much longer than at the tourist booking office. You will need to know the number or name of the train you want to take. Easiest of all, though, is to book on-line through the Indian Railways booking website.

New Delhi Railway Station
The main entrance to New Delhi Railway Station (code NDLS) is located just outside of Paharganj, also known as the backpacker ghetto. The Delhi Metro now connects directly here, but the metro exits are at the Ajmeri Gate (second entrance) side near platform 12. You can also take prepaid rickshaws and taxis from the plaza outside the main entrance.
The station is large, crowded, confusing and packed with touts, so allow one hour (yes, really) to find your train the first time you visit. Don't trust the electronic display boards, which often show incorrect information. Instead listen to the announcements and ask multiple people in uniform until you find your train. However, anyone, in uniform or not, who approaches you spontaneously should be ignored. Use one of the porters (in orange) who will find your train easily.
A tourist ticket office called the International Tourist Bureau is open during office hours upstairs of the main New Delhi railway station. Ignore touts who will try to convince you that it has moved or is closed. Note that it is only for foreign tourists, so you must have a tourist visa (i.e. student and working visas are not acceptable). Non-resident Indians can also book their tickets through this office. Bring your passport and cash or traveller's cheques in U.S. dollars, British Pounds or Euros. If you wish to pay in Indian rupees you must show an official exchange certificate (from India, not valid if you changed in another country) or an ATM receipt. To get a ticket, first get a form from the centre of the room, and fill it out. Then go to the information desk near the entrance. There, have the clerk check the availability of the train(s) you desire, and fill out your form accordingly. Then line up at one of the two u-shaped lines of chairs for the reservation desks.
There are lots of tricks and scams in operation at NDRS. It is a baffling place, especially if you just arrived in India. Basically do not believe anybody who approaches you to volunteer information. Stuff like 'oh that train goes from another station.' or offers of assistance with bags or help taking you to where you want to go. It's a con. If you need help, YOU choose who you want to help you, don't trust strangers who appear out of the crowd.

Delhi Railway Station
Formally Delhi Junction (code DLI), but best referred to as "Old" Delhi Station for clarity. Like New Delhi RS, this station is huge and confusing. The platforms are not in linear order, with some hidden in the west and east wings of the stations. The railway station is served by Metro Line 2 Chandni Chowk station.

Hazrat Nizamuddin
Hazrat Nizamuddin (code NZM) is the departure point of many trains heading south. Practically speaking, the only way to get here is by taxi or auto. It's the least chaotic of the Big Three, but still pretty big and poorly signposted — listen to the announcements to figure out your train. The station has a pretty good food court that sells inexpensive, hygienic takeaway snacks (sandwiches, samosas, etc).
If you have some time to kill, pay a visit to Humayun's Tomb, which is so close to the station that you can hear the announcements from inside — although it's a long, circuitous walk from the station to the entrance.